We came across this beauty by mistake mislabeled at a local plant sale. It is no wonder that this plant is well known among flower gardeners. Jewels of Opar, known as “Fame Flower,” “Waterleaf”, “South American Ginseng,” and “Pink Baby’s Breath” is a purslane relative native to the Caribbean and southern portions of the United States. It’s sprays of tiny pink flowers that become ruby orange seed capsules can be a great addition to your edible landscape!
A BIT OF HISTORY…
Jewels of Opar has been used for centuries! Its seeds were collected by indigenous peoples (can be compared to flax seed). In the Chinese medicinal practice known as Tu-ren-shen it has been used to tone digestion, moisten the lungs, and promote breast milk. Here’s some trivia, soldiers in WWII ate the leaves as food!
DESCRIPTION
Jewels of Opar displays beautiful sprays of tiny pink flowers that bloom in the afternoon. As the season progresses these give way to ruby orange seed capsules that hover over lush green plants! Don’t be fooled by its daintiness! This is a tough little heat tolerant perennial that can grow in just about any soil. When cool weather greens such as lettuce begin to get bitter at the end of the season, jewels of opar stays tender and sweet with mild flavor and a hint of lemon. This green is an energy packed succulent that thrives in our hot summers, and comes back for several years.
This is one of our favorite Summer-greens because that’s when we’re craving cool foods like salads, sandwiches, and smoothies, to which this plant lends itself well. This crunchy succulent is excellent for picking and eating right off the plant and tastes great as a lettuce or spinach substitute!
NUTRITIONAL VALUE
This power packed succulent green is crammed with healthy goodness! Jewels of Opar is a great source of omega 3 fatty acids, antioxidants, and is rich in iron & potassium. In fact, it contains such high levels of iron that scientists studying it developed the mantra, “a leaf a day keeps anemia away.” It has antifungal and antibacterial properties as well. In fact it is so amazing that I had to make a list of all the things it has been used for.
As an effective herb for treating lung diseases and ulcers
Enhances vitality
Used topically to treat edema, skin inflammation, cuts, and scrapes.
The juice soothes sore muscles and acts as a muscle toner
In China the roots are cultivated as a ginseng substitute
Used to treat diabetes, gastrointestinal disorders, and pneumonia
Induces lactation, works as reproductive tonic and restores uterine functions postpartum
Used in Indonesia for liver and kidney problems
Treats diarrhea
It should be noted, these greens are great in moderate quantities. If consumed in large amounts may cause vomiting and shortness of breath in some people. Even so, we had a small handful in our green smoothie every morning for months during Marin’s pregnancy with amazing results.
TAKE NOTE: Because this plant is so effective at extracting minerals from the soil, it has been used in phytoremediation sites in soils that are contaminated with nitrates and metals. It will absorb toxic metals, from the soil, so don’t grow it in a contaminated area.
CULTIVATION
Jewels of Opar readily self sows in gardens, and you can collect the seeds yourself to plant where you desire. As an edible landscape plant it looks beautiful as a border flower. From June until frost they send out panicle after panicle without deadheading even as the older ones mature. We have found that it grows very well direct sown or from cuttings in direct sun or partial shade. They need plenty of water initially since they are a succulent, but may tolerate drought once established. They look beautiful in a flower bed as you start to see the delicate stalks pop up. Tolerant of poor soils and heat.
DESIGN
Jewels of Opar makes a gorgeous delicate filler flower for borders and containers. having several packed into one space is beautiful when sprays of delicate pink flowers start to bloom. Jewels of Opar provides features of interest throughout most of the year.
In sunny spots, it looks good paired with perennial border plants such as society garlic, garlic chives, Thai basil, penny royal and oregano. For afternoon shade settings, pair with flowers such as nasturtiums, pansies, violets and strawberries.
FINAL THOUGHTS
Overall, Jewels of Opar tastes great as a snack right off the plant, but we especially enjoy it in salads and green smoothies! In fact, this is one of our sneaky ways to get our kids eating greens. They love picking and eating the leaves!
Without a doubt, Jewels of Opar wins. Absolutely one of our favorites. I like to think of it as a nice pick me up in the quiet peaceful morning when I’m out enjoying our edible paradise.
If you have any question or comments please share!
Most people think of Bermuda grass as “the tough grass.” But it’s not just that, it can be one of the most invasive weeds in the world, which may have something to do with its other appellation “devil grass”.
So here’s the scoop, for those of you are aware of it’s aggressiveness through personal experience, you know you have a few options. You can continue to hand pull it out of your garden… forever, you can ignore it’s incessant creep into your garden beds and tree wells, and just give up altogether as many gardeners are consigned to do, or you can sacrifice a season of planting to permanently eradicate it and likely never have to deal with it again!
In the 20+ years that I have been in the landscaping industry and over the course of the last decade of consulting only one person has taken me seriously enough to get rid of it before installing anything (including contractors who knew better). The rest were impatient, planted too soon, and probably continue to deal with it to this day. Maybe I am not convincing enough, which is one reason I am attempting to spread the word through this post. Get the stuff out!
WHAT IS BERMUDA GRASS?
“Never make a plan without knowing as much as you can of the enemy. Never be afraid to change your plans when you receive new information. Never believe you know everything and never wait to know everything.” ~Robert Jordan~
“The most efficient way to lose a fight is to act without knowing your enemy.” ~Frank Matobo~
Before attacking your enemy, it is imperative to know them. Bermuda grass, contrary to what may seem obvious, doesn’t hail from the island of Bermuda, but from South Africa. Why is this important information?
The climate in South Africa is similar to the sunny low deserts of Arizona, except for a couple of things. First, the average temperatures don’t dip quite as low as they do here in the winter, and second, the majority of the continent of Africa has basically one rainy season, and the rest of the year it is very dry.
As a result Bermuda grass loves sun, and has adapted to be very drought tolerant, surviving 9 months or more (up to several years) without water by forcing itself into dormancy when growing conditions are not suitable. When growing conditions are suitable (lots of sun and water) it grows very fast, actively storing sugars and nutrients in it’s rhizomes.
Bermuda does have a virtue. It is a bio-accumulator plant. Minerals and nutrients mined by it’s root system are brought to the surface and sloughed off as the plant sheds old material or dies. These nutrients will become available for your new plantings once you remove the active rhizomes of the grass.
Although many of us have made some efforts to eradicate it (like removing surface soil, or chemically spraying it,) we are often tempted to think that our Bermuda problem has been resolved, but in reality, it is just… “sleeping” only to roar to life with some sun, heat, and water. At least it’s not a deadly weed that will kill you upon touching it.
Such a grass was a perfect breeding stock for the agricultural and landscape industries, which have developed many different varieties over the years since its first debut into the landscaping scene. Before getting rid of it it may be helpful to know what kind you have and what it’s strengths and weaknesses are.
SEED-TYPE V.S. TIFF-TYPE BERMUDA GRASS
Bermuda grass, for the purpose of our discussion of removal, can be organized into two main types. Seed-type, and tiff-type. One is often grown or propagated via seed and the other is a seedless hybrid that is propagated only by “stolons” or pieces of the plant. Because this type rarely produces viable seed, this type is purchased primarily as sod.
For the remainder of this discussion I would like to refer to seed-types as “common” Bermuda, and tiff-types as “hybrid.” Common varieties are much harder to get rid of than hybrid varieties, but both are generally not welcome in gardens and tree wells. And frankly, I don’t even recommend them for lawns, myself. We can go into detail on what we do recommend for “lawns” in another post.
SEED-TYPE, OR “COMMON” BERMUDA GRASS
Common Bermuda varieties are usually very vigorous and often have roots that “mine” for nutrients and water up to many feet deep. If your grass is a seed type, congratulations, your Bermuda is going to be a lot harder to get rid of (but feel even MORE worth it!).
Pasture Bermuda is a type of common Bermuda grass that was bred to create large amounts of biomass to feed grazing animals. Unfortunately for those who are trying to remove this one, the depth of the rhizomes sometimes mirror the achievable height of the grass (4-6 feet tall/deep), and the feeder roots go much deeper.
You know you have some variety of common Bermuda grass if the un-mowed grass forms seed heads in the summer that resemble 2-3 inch wide inside-out umbrella ribs. Yes, those are seed heads and represent this plant’s ability to propagate and spread long into futurity.
The Ag industry realized at some point the terrible potential of this grass so many hybrid varieties have been developed that are much less aggressive and can make a decent summer lawn.
TIFF TYPE, OR “HYBRID” BERMUDA GRASS
Hybrid varieties are seedless. You can find this type at many garden supply stores in the warm weather. It is the sod we are all so familiar with. Breeders were able to cultivate characteristics into the grass that were desirable for a drought tolerant, manicured tiff-type turf. It is also “softer” because the leaf blades grow closer together and the grass doesn’t grow as tall. Thus, it also does not possess as deep of a root system, nor is as hardy to drought and other environmental factors.
Sod varieties of Bermuda are the ONLY types I have ever recommend to people who insist on installing a traditional summer lawn. While it may produce a small seed head 1-1.5 inches across, it never sets seed, and can be easier to manicure, maintain, and control. Because once you pick your grass, its quite a commitment.
Unfortunately, common Bermuda seed is cheaper to buy than sod, and is sold as “summer grass” seed as opposed to “winter grass” seed in many nurseries and garden centers in the western United States.
I personally prefer to take all Bermuda out, plant winter grass and other “lawns” earlier, and let it go later. This way I can enjoy a softer green during the cool season, and rarely have to mow the lawn in 115 degree weather!
Some of you may say “Why have a lawn at all?” Very good question, and for you maybe a lawn isn’t the answer. However, I am not just growing food, I am growing kids too, and they grow well on lawns.
Regardless of your motives, removing Bermuda can be a challenge.
HOW TO GET RID OF BERMUDA FOR GOOD
There are several ways to get rid of Bermuda grass that work depending upon your specific area and application. I recommend taking an Integrated Pest Management (IPM) approach, which considers attacking the problem from many different angles, working from least toxic to most toxic as necessary.
First, and most thoroughly, you can remove it through good old fashioned digging and sifting out rhizomes. This is generally my recommended method. This is how gardeners get buff!
Second, mulching often comes up online as a recommended method of removal by organic means, but be warned, from experience this only works for hybrid varieties with shallow root systems, and generally only after tilling the roots up or in conjunction with other eradication methods.
Third, solarization is the suffocation and “cooking” of Bermuda grass during the hottest months of the year. Again, this will kill only the rhizomes in the top few inches of soil and will leave that soil largely sterile, as most microbes will also perish in the process.
The last method, and ironically the most common, is using chemicals. While I may recommend the use of chemicals in some applications, I urge caution and education. Chemicals, are rarely sufficient on their own, and if they are entirely successful, you may be left with residual doses in your soil.
Also bear in mind that some varieties or individual stands of grass may have developed a genetic resistance to some chemicals, making complete eradication by this method not achievable. For more information on this subject we will be discussing the use of herbicides in another post.
In smaller garden and areas intended for the planting of trees I recommend digging and sifting first, then you may consider mulching or spraying whatever you missed. If you are thorough, you should not have to spray at all.
DIGGING TIPS
Here’s the meat of the whole subject.
When digging, you first need to know what you are looking for. The rhizomes are not too difficult to identify. They are thick, usually white or pale yellow and have joints. They generally grow in a horizontal direction unless they have been disturbed. These are the only ones you absolutely must remove. Any joint left in the soil has the potential to resurface with a vengeance.
If the soil moisture is consistent then the rhizomes are generally tough enough to be able to dig out in identifiable chunks, making the process not too complicated. If the soil is too dry, the rhizomes will be extra brittle. The feeder roots however, are thin and wiry, and head downward from the joints. These are not a concern and will not re-grow. That said, as I have been teaching my kids, “when in doubt, dig it out!”
1. WATER FIRST
Making sure that your patch to be removed has had moisture a few days in advance does a few things. First, and most importantly, its easier digging in softer soil. Second, the rhizomes will have sucked up some moisture and be more pliable and easier to follow without breaking off. Dry rhizomes are brittle and make removal in nice sized chunks more difficult. Don’t dig in mud though or you may damage your soil structure. Prepare a day or two in advance with a long-slow soak and then a partial dry-out period.
2. USE A SIFTER
If you find yourself questioning your life’s priorities and purpose as you tear up your backyard in an effort to eradicate a little weed, you may consider making it a little easier on yourself by acquiring or making a sifter. Mounting a screen onto a table-like frame that can be placed above the work area or a wheelbarrow may save your back. The best I have found is a wire mesh or expanded sheet metal with 1/2″ diameter holes. Just shovel the dirt onto that, shake with your hands, shovel, or trowel and it will catch most of the roots and rocks, just keep a sharp eye out for the occasional joint that slips through.
3. DON’T BRAKE IT OFF, FOLLOW IT
When digging out deeper rhizomes, try to not break pieces off. Instead, follow them down until you find the end. Follow it like you are carefully tracking the source of a disease! If you break it off prematurely and fail to get it all, it will send a vertical rhizome from the deeper area to the surface making the new rhizome thinner and harder to trace in the future.
4. WORK FROM ONE END TO THE OTHER, BE METHODICAL
Work from one end to the other. As you dig, place each clump of dirt that needs gone through in a “clean” spot and immediately go through it, this way you don’t loose your place and you are left with a pile of Bermuda free dirt!
5. BE THOROUGH, DON’T LEAVE ANY BEHIND
You have got to be thorough. Any joint left in the ground after your first attempt at removal has the potential to resurface and take over if left unchecked. Don’t leave any behind. From experience, such a rhizome can travel 15 feet or more before resurfacing in just a couple of months.
6. DON’T GIVE UP!
You are going to want to give up. Battling Bermuda is hard work if you are going to eliminate it. Just remember what you are working for… A BERMUDA FREE YARD! I promise it’s worth it! You will never have to stress about Bermuda grass again if you force yourself to get it out now.
MULCHING
As I said before, mulching may work in certain situations with hybrid Bermuda varieties, but it will require tilling/fine cultivation first to break up the grass’s ability to store and transport sugars to the foliage.
Bermuda needs sun. Think photosynthesis- the plant converts sunlight to sugars. If the grass is continually buried in a coarse mulch each time green pokes through, it will substantially weaken it, but blocking sun alone, will likely just force it into dormancy.
Bermuda is a grass. Grasses need a constant supply of nitrogen during their active growing season. In order for microbes to break down carbon, nitrogen is used up. Deep mulching (1-3 feet of woodchips or straw) will not only block out sunlight, but the grass will also have a hard time competing for nitrogen in such a carbon-rich environment (think of the process of making compost). Therefore, this method, if done right, should not be applied where fruit trees are already existing- they also need nitrogen to survive and will struggle along with your Bermuda grass.
From my experience, this method works best in tandem with the other methods.
SOLARIZATION
Have you ever heard of a solar oven? Using sunlight to “cook” Bermuda grass also works.
Solarization is the process of placing thick, clear greenhouse plastic over a large patch of bermuda for several months, sealing the edges with dirt and rocks. Thus, probably not an option in a front yard with an HOA because its not very pretty.
Bermuda begins actively growing when the night-time temperatures are consistently in the mid-sixties. For us in Phoenix metropolitan Arizona, this is usually early to mid-April.
Bermuda begins storing sugars for winter beginning in mid-August through about mid-October. Placing your lawn in a solar oven from mid-April to mid-August or September and then tilling it up does some substantial damage. Just be prepared to work on the remaining rhizomes that do emerge thereafter.
While solarization is considered an “organic” method, what will kill one organism will also hurt others. The cooking process leaves 3-4 inches of soil microbially “dead”. This takes quite a bit of time and organic resources to restore, though something that us gardeners are usually not afraid of.
The other downsides of solarization include an often-incomplete kill, (which is why this strategy works best in conjunction with others) and an ugly plastic sheet in your yard all summer that is sun-damaged itself by August and will need thrown away.
USING CHEMICALS
If you are attacking pasture, or some other aggressive form of Bermuda grass and have chosen to take the chemical route, this is what I recommend:
1. CHOOSING YOUR CHEMICAL
Despite all the litigation surrounding it right now, glyphosate, the active ingredient in Roundup, is one of the only chemicals I recommend. There are many herbicides that are much more toxic, and way more resistant to breaking down in your soil than glyphosate. This chemical may be useful when trying to eradicate a large area indiscriminately, as it is considered a “non-selective” herbicide.
The other useful chemical to battle Bermuda grass is the brand name Fusilade II. This is a remix of the chemical base Fluazifop. Fusilade II may be used to selectively eradicate Bermuda grass from plantings of shrubs, flowerbeds, and yes, gardens. It has been determined safe in garden settings, as it is minimally toxic and breaks down quickly. The only reason that I may consider glyphosate over Fusilade II is that Fusilade II is substantially more expensive.
To hopefully answer all your questions and concerns we will be doing another post on chemicals in the near future. To put it briefly for now, glyphosate and Fusilade II are minimally toxic in comparison to other herbicides and they break down relatively quickly in your soil.
2. WAIT UNTIL THE WEATHER IS RIGHT
The best time to spray is in the summer during its active growing season. The most effective kill will be from August through September, but don’t wait all summer to get on it, by then it will have taken over.
Don’t spray before rain. The chemical is only absorbed through the foliage of the plant, not the roots. If you spray and then it rains, you will have wasted your chemical and time. The chemical needs a minimum of 3 hours, preferably 24 hours prior to getting wet.
Spray in the early morning hours. The majority of the chemical is absorbed through the pores of the plant called the “stomata”. These pores will be much more open in the early morning hours and in the late evening hours.
3. WATER, BUT DON’T MOW FIRST
Because the chemical is absorbed only through the foliage and is inert at the root zone, it is much more effective to spray grass that is high and green- there will be more foliage to take the chemical in. Let it grow a little tall before spraying.
Watering the grass will stimulate the stomata to open up. Give it a little water a day or two before you spray, but don’t water after or you’ll be washing off the chemical.
3. DON’T STOP UNTIL IT’S DEAD
One application of chemical will rarely suffice. You will likely have to be on top of it the whole summer to be sure it’s completely dead. A good rule is to water, then spray, wait till it is all dry and dead, mow off the dead, water, then spray again in a week or two.
If you spray once and forget, the grass will go dormant and seem dead but may come back more resilient to glyphosate the next season. Bermuda allowed to go to seed after a spray application will produce some offspring that will be glyphosate resistant.
IS ALL THIS REALLY WORTH IT?
Bermuda can teach us lessons. As you spend time digging out Bermuda, you will find out much about yourself. You will discover your true ability to push forward through obstacles to create what you envision. You may also learn lessons. Resilience. Preparation. Adaptation. Hard work. Gratitude (there are worse weeds out there). Accomplishment.
I learned these lessons at 17 years old when I spent the summer tackling my first real Bermuda removal project. I envisioned a beautiful entertainment area from what was then a yard overrun with Bermuda grass and weeds. A hot summer with a pick and shovel taught me much. The task was monumental, but it became spiritual.
We had a friend a few years back who made a commendable effort to remove their Bermuda grass, but then decided that they had to get their potted trees in the ground before the heat of summer. They determined to just dig it out where they wanted trees now, cover the rest with wood chips and work on it piece-meal from there.
Not surprisingly they are still dealing with it. It has now taken over their tree wells, garden beds, and is coming up through the bottom of their pots. What a pain!
I have another friend who took me very seriously. As a university professor with a young family he was a very busy man, but he was determined. He built a sifter. He set up a tent. He worked his tail off all summer and within two years he had a thriving garden of beets, watermelons, onions, tomatoes, and cucumbers. He was picking apples, apricots, bananas, blackberries, grapes, figs, mulberries, papayas, plums, and pomegranates… in a Bermuda-FREE yard in just two years.
We have done the same thing and received the same results. Bermuda grass is a PAIN. Do yourself a favor and do the work from the start. I PROMISE you will be glad you did. If you have Bermuda grass, dig it all out. Period.
I get it. No one really wants to spend all of that effort, which is why few have done it. I’m starting all over in a new yard, and believe me, I am fighting off the urge to start sticking trees in the ground and planting garden beds. But the Bermuda has to come out first. We will plant our paradise, but only AFTER we dig out the grass. Until we accomplish task number one we just have to be patient and work hard.
We can do this. For questions and encouragement, use the comment section below.
It is common knowledge among gardening folk in the desert that mesquite and many other desert trees are nitrogen fixing legumes. Here are a few reasons why the desert is full of nitrogen fixers.
Nitrogen is Essential
Nitrogen is one of the most important essential nutrients that plants need to be able to survive and thrive. Nitrogen is an essential ingredient in amino acids, proteins, hormones, etc, but while nitrogen makes up more than three quarters of the gas in our atmosphere, for plants to be able to use this nutrient it must be converted from its gaseous state into its ionized salt forms. Unfortunately, once converted into these usable forms it begins to vaporize back into a gas at a mere 90 degrees.
Here in the low desert of Arizona, we often don’t see the near side of 90 degrees for more than 6 months of the year. The process of converting nitrogen into a usable salt form is very energy intensive. This is because the molecular bonding of nitrogen is very strong, thus there are only three ways that I am aware of by which it can be achieved.
Three Ways Nitrogen is Converted into Usable Salt Forms
First, nitrogen can be converted into a plant usable salt form from mixed natural gases, such as methane through the industrial fertilizer manufacturing process known as the “hagen bosch system”. Again, energy intensive, but possible, and applied on a huge scale by industrial farming systems through the conversion of extracted fossil fuel natural gas into nitrate fertilizer.
Second, nitrogen can be converted by the ionization that occurs from lightning coming in contact with nitrogen gas. Ever wondered why rainwater seems to make plants grow better than municipal water? This is one of many possible reasons why. Again, an intense amount of energy is used to break these strong nitrogen bonds. Lighting is intense.
Lastly, the nitrification process can be accomplished by nitrifying bacteria that colonize the roots of many species of legumes, of which mesquite is one. This colonization thereby aids in the growth and survival of so many other plants in the mesquite or ironwood guilds in the hot, dry, desert climate. Nitrifying bacteria included in this powerful sorcery of ionized nitrogen include many species in the genera Nitrosomonas, Nitrosococcus, Nitrobacter and Nitrococcus. These are some of the smallest and most important superheroes on our planet.
Nitrifying Bacteria
Have you ever seen a tree growing out of a crack in a cliff, like in the photographs on the cover of an Arizona Highways magazine, or on a drive through the mountains? It is unlikely that there is any soil in that crack. No available nutrients via dirt. But the populations of bacteria on the roots of those plants are huge and essential. The bacterias and fungi are breaking down rock and extracting nutrients from the air. They then exchange those nutrients with the plant roots, even colonizing inside the plant’s cells!
So it turns out that this relationship between nitrifying bacteria and plants is a large-scale commonplace operation. Not just on legumes, but on the roots of many other plants too. Some of these plants have direct relationships with species of bacteria that do not fix nitrogen, but those have relationships with some species of bacteria that do fix nitrogen. It quickly becomes a very complex and interconnected web of micro and macro relationships.
But the most well-known relationship of nitrifying bacteria is with the roots of leguminous plants. This understanding that certain species of legumes enrich the soil for other crops is not new. In fact, the practice of using nitrogen-fixing legumes as a cover crop has been a practice in nearly every agricultural civilization probably since the dawn of time, even if all of the details of why it worked may not have been fully understood.
Nitrogen Fixing Cover Crops
Lupines in South America, clover in Europe and Australia, alfalfa in the Moroccan region, and vetch in the United States, cowpeas, bambara beans, and peanuts in Africa, rushpea, pigeon pea, and fenugreek in India, lentils in Western Asia and Canada. Native Americans cultivated pink fuzzy bean and hog peanuts in the woods, as well as Hopniss, a leguminous tuber that in southern regions also produces a reliable bean pod.
In perennial agroforestry applications black locust, acacias, leucaena, sesbania, and hundreds of others have been used worldwide for the same purpose- to increase fertility and production of surrounding crops. Another tree, Red Alder, which is not a legume, but also has a symbiotic relationship with nitrogen fixing bacteria that colonize its root system, has also been used extensively in more recent times in permaculture guilds.
Nitrogen improves fertility and production for the garden and orchard
A few years ago, while in conversation with some county extension agents, I heard of a study that was conducted by the University of Arizona using clover as a living mulch under citrus trees. The scientists found that citrus orchards under-planted with some species of clover performed exceptionally well. The trial resulted in a citrus crop that required maybe a third as much fertilizer as traditional orcharding systems. (The study was terminated early due to an increase in overall biological diversity, which included a sharp increase in the rattlesnake population, thereby putting the scientists, orchardists, and fruit harvesters at greater risk).
Microbial Relationships
Every plant on the planet has essential microbial relationships. Ironically, some of these bacteria and fungi that are found on seed coats (that serve to strengthen a newly germinated root system) can handle boiling water, freezing temperatures, high salt environments, even the high
doses of chlorine found in our municipal water supply, but the microbes that coat seeds are often killed when seeds are coated in ionized nitrogen fertilizer.
And we think that our species is so smart! Sounds like a great idea- package a seed with a bit of “plant food” to give it a good start. However did nature manage without us for so long?!
Some people think that some other people run the world, but I beg to differ. I think that microbes run the planet, even in our hot deserts, and among their superheroes, are nitrifying bacteria. You want a healthy garden, plant some legumes and let the microbes do what microbes do best!
If done right, using inline fertigation may be one of the fastest, easiest and most accurate methods of administering Soil Fertility Accelerator (SFA) and other such products to the landscape. As a reiteration, SFA needs to make contact with soil pretty quickly in order to adapt to its specific environment, which is why it must be flushed through on the “fast” setting. A residential size EZ-Flo inline fertigation tank will flush through completely on the fast setting with about 400 gallons of water per 1 gallon of tank. Other systems will have their own rates. By using an in-line fertigation method on a fast delivery setting you will ensure that those microbes are ready to go when they hit the soil.
We will now review an example with these parameters:
A 2 gallon residential EZ-Flo fertigation tank flushes completely in just 800 gallons on the “fast” setting.
For a monthly application of 6,400-12,800 square feet of planted area approximately 1 oz may be used.
EZ Flo Application Example
Step 1: Calculate Square Footage
As stated before- don’t stress too much on flawless precision dosage. These are living microbes whose populations fluctuate by the billions within a matter of minutes. Be close, be consistent. For most applications I recommend just assuming that your area is relatively evenly distributed square footage, and that your application rates are going to be the same for each zone.
Step 2: Calculate Zone Water Usage
Calculation Methods
There are two different ways to calculate the water usage for each landscape irrigation zone.
The first method is to calculate the water flow rate of each nozzle, and emitter and add them up to determine the total water usage per zone. I do not generally recommend this method unless you are an engineer with some extra time on your hands and are convinced that your landscape irrigation system is flawless.
The second method (and easier) method is to use the water meter to determine the water usage of each zone. Note: to get an accurate calculation you will need to make sure that you do not have any leaks in the irrigation system and all needed repairs are made prior to calculating water usage.
Tip! If you use the water meter to determine the gallons per minute you may want to start timing after you are sure that the system has fully pressurized. To do this write down your starting gallonage beginning at 10 seconds after you initiate the program and again at 70 seconds. This should accurately provide you with the gallonage per minute used for that zone.
Note: Because of the inaccuracy associated with the time it takes to pressurize a system an effort to achieve precise dosage will be an exercise in futility. Get it close. Be consistent. Don’t stress too much about calculating in the time it takes to pressurize the system.
Example
For our example using a 2 gallon EZ-Flo inline fertigation tank system we have decided upon the water meter method to calculate the following:
Zone 1: The drip emitters are flow-regulated at 4 gallons per hour and there are 4 emitters per tree and 30 trees. It is determined that our drip emitters and water meter are consistent with each other and Zone 1 water usage is approximately 480 gallons per hour, or assume 8 gallons per minute.
Zone 2: The drip emitters are flow-regulated at 2 gallons per hour and there are 1 emitter per shrub and 30 shrubs. It is determined that our drip emitters and water meter are consistent with each other and Zone 2 water usage is approximately 120 gallons per hour, or assume 2 gallons per minute.
Zone 3: The back lawn sprinklers are all 15’ fixed arc popup nozzles. We shall assume that they accurately put out about 1 gallon per quarter circle. This lawn is a rectangle with four quarter circles and 4 half circles. Using the water meter method we have determined that Zone 3 water usage is approximately 12 gallons per minute.
Zone 4: Again, using the water meter, we have determined that the front lawn water usage is approximately 10 gallons per minute.
Zone 5: Again, using the water meter, we have determined that the garden area uses approximately 8 gallons per minute.
Step 3: Calculate Run Times
As we are trying to accurately divide up the amount of water that the tank needs to deliver to each zone we will use the previous calculations, which have added up to 40 total gallons per minute (assuming that they all ran at once). Divide 800 gallons by 40 gallons per minute (gallons needed to completely flush the tank – 400 gallons per gallon of EZ Flo tank size) = 20 minutes total run time.
Now divide the flow rates previously calculated into the 20 total minutes. Our results for the product application will be as follows: Zone 1 = 4 minutes, Zone 2 = 1 minute, Zone 3 = 6 minutes, Zone 4 = 5 minutes, Zone 5 = 4 minutes.
Step 4: Calculate Product to Apply
Standard dosage rates are about one ounce per 6,400 -12,800 square feet every 4-6 weeks.
If we have a 10,000 square foot property, but only about 7000, square feet planted out for the landscape, our application quantity could be about an ounce. If we have only 5000 square feet, and we are on a monthly application schedule then once ounce may last us two months.
Conclusion
Now Apply!
The dosage of SFA to be applied to the landscape may be initially reconstituted into a slurry of about 8 ounces of water per 1 ounce or less of product. Once the product goes into full suspension it will be ready to put into the tank. Note: there may be some particles that settle to the bottom and do not immediately fully dissolve. This is ok and not to be worried about. If the tank is already full of water, drain off half, pour SFA slurry into the tank, fill up the tank to the top. If your yard resembles the example, you may have SFA in your landscape in 20 minutes!
Soil Fertility Accelerator is revolutionary! While you can apply this through a backpack sprayer or hose-end sprayer, using an inline fertigation delivery process works great in scheduled maintenance routines for gardeners, landscape crews, homeowners, farmers, and horticulturists. Increase your soil carbon, water retention, nutrient density, plant hardiness, vigor, and disease resistance. Change your soil, Change your LIFE!
It’s midway through our hot desert summer here in Arizona. This year (2018) seems to have been especially dry and hot. Despite the lack of moisture and oppressive heat, there are some plants and trees that don’t seem to mind the long wait for late summer monsoon rain. Among those is the ever-ubiquitous mesquite tree. This tree has an extensive root system that travels great distances and depths following the slightest amount of moisture.
This being said, most of the roots are shallow and when overwatered the top outgrows the roots and the evidence is found throughout the valley after a monsoon storm in toppled trees that had taken advantage of a regimen of overwatering that resulted in excessive top growth and minimal root support. Many of the trees that experience this are large enough that it is impossible to straighten them and they are merely trimmed up and left to continue growing their crooked ways. Though this gnarliness is admired by many, it often represents a scar of excessive moisture.
HISTORY
A hundred years ago during the dawn of modern-day settlers to the low desert valleys, there were once dense mesquite forests known as “bosques”. These bosques occurred anywhere where there was moisture found in the soil (and expanded their region as agricultural ditches, flooding, and cattle ranching spread the ideal range of the trees. The mesquite forests formed an extensive network of fibrous roots that resisted erosion, added nitrogen and other nutrients to the soil, and protected each other from toppling in winds. As groundwater was depleted by continual pumping and surface water was continually diverted from rivers the riparian areas that once extended as much as three miles from the Gila, Salt, and Verde rivers began to dry up and vanish, and so did many of the original bosques with their twisted black trunks, shady umbrella of branches, and abundant wildlife.
TREE OF LIFE
The native mesquite tree varieties have long been valued as an ethnobotanical gem by ancient peoples who used every part of the tree. The wood of course, for cooking and construction, the thorns for needlework, the bark for fiber, the sap as an adhesive, emulsifier, and cosmetic, the leaves for mulch, the pods for a high protein flour, and the flowers provide excellent bee forage for some of the most prized honey on earth. Shallow-rooted and heat-sensitive crops may be planted below the canopy, benefitting from filtered light, leaf compost, and abundant nutrients including nitrogen. The lightweight and airy canopy allows heat to dissipate at night and the stomata on the leaves open up allowing evapotranspiration to continue through the night, thereby cooling the ambient environment. The ancient peoples of the Southwestern desert understood and appreciated the mesquite tree for all that it provided them for their survival and so it earned the title “Tree of Life”.
THE PODS
Among all of the valuable offerings of the mesquite tree, our focus today is on its sweet pods, which will be the emphasis of the remainder of this post. I have long been aware that mesquite pods produce a nutritious flour and have even had some recipes made from such, but not all mesquite species produce valuable pods. Many species, particularly the non-native and ubiquitous Chilean Mesquite (Prosopis chilensis) and its hybrids, do not produce particularly edible pods; some producing very few or none whatsoever. Unfortunately, to complicate matters, mesquite species will often naturally hybridize, thus tainting seedlings of the more desirable species such as Honey Mesquite (Prosopis glandulosa), Velvet Mesquite (Prosopis velutina), and Screwbean Mesquite (Prosopis pubescens) with undesirable genetics.
The pods of each are unique. The pods of the honey mesquite are usually straight or slightly curved, plump, and often show off purple markings making them especially attractive. They express sweet honey-lemon overtones in flavor and result in a very pleasant flour. Screwbean mesquite is known to provide excellent dry flour without too much fuss, and velvet mesquite provides its own unique sweetness.
It is best when harvesting pods that you select trees by actually sampling the pods of different individual trees (and even at different seasons), as there is definite genetic variation among members of the same species. Get tasting and find your favorite tree!
Despite having a knowledge of the mesquite trees many virtues, I was still personally resistant to turning to mesquite as a food source for many years. My idea of a beautiful and abundant landscape has a reluctant allowance for thorns, tough food pods, and a lot of processing. My experiences with mesquite flour in recipes are mixed, and decidedly only tasty once combined with regular wheat flour and lots of sugar.
The other drawback of mesquite trees in the landscape is the mess. Amid the hot dry air and crispy plants in the middle of the summer, our landscapes here in the desert are often made less attractive by the sheer quantity of debris that is shed by plants trying to conserve moisture. To add to the copious quantities of leaf litter (that is made even more abundant during monsoon winds) we have an overabundance of mesquite pods dropping from nearly every single (unhybridized) mesquite tree. For most people, this is truly an annoyance and they feel a general sense of dread just thinking about braving the desert heat in June or July to go out and clean up the mess.
I was one of those people who told myself that I would never have one of those annoying, messy desert trees in my landscape. But this summer I have had a paradigm shift that began with a determination to help my sister’s family with summer yard work. Every June I again ponder upon the best way to deal with the mess of pods under the mature honey mesquite tree in her front yard. If I put them in the compost they inevitably sprout little thorny trees in the garden. I also can’t stand the thought of putting a high carbon natural product in the landfill, and would love to see this resource put to good use- I don’t have any goats.
Texas Honey Mesquite – Prosopis glandulosa
HARVESTING
This year I decided that with a little extra effort added to the cleanup of the pods, I would give mesquite flour a try. Since then I have come to find out that in the dry heat of June is usually the very BEST time to harvest them. Before I tell you what I did with them I want to make it clear that timing your harvest is important. The ancient timing of mesquite harvests was always conducted prior to the arrival of the summer monsoon thunderstorms, which usually begin sometime in July. In June the pods drop and are usually plenty dry for milling, but ensuring the dryness of the pods is only one concern. While it is much easier to mill very dry mesquite pods because green ones tend to gum up your equipment there are also other things to consider.
Because there is an increasing interest in returning to the culturally significant practice of milling mesquite flour there is also an increasing concern surrounding an invisible fungus that takes up residence in the pods once the rains arrive. The fungus is known as Aspergillus flavilus and can lead to the formation of aflatoxins in the seedpod. Based on tests that have been conducted to identify the presence of dangerous levels of aflatoxins, it is fairly easy to avoid aflatoxin exposure by simply ensuring that the pods have never come in contact with moisture. Those pods that do have a very high likelihood of being contaminated. They may be harvested dry and ripe directly from the tree itself or from the ground if you know the area is clean and has remained free from moisture during the development and drop of the pods. One method is to lay down a sheet to collect the pods as they drop. This practice is usually necessary over the extended period of time that the pods are falling from the tree.
PROCESSING
PREPARING THE PODS BY HEATING OR FREEZING
The processing of the pods turned out to be WAY easier than I had expected. But don’t get ahead of yourself. You will see, as you collect your pods, that there are likely many holes in them. These are exit holes of the harmless bruchid beetle. That doesn’t guarantee the presence of any additional beetles or larvae inside your pods, but more likely than not, they are there. That is why the next step is to either deep freeze the pods in your freezer for a day or two, or heat the pods. It is pretty easy to simply place the pods in an enclosed bucket and store the bucket in your car for a few days. A hot day in June or July in Arizona in a car usually does the trick. Inevitably, there are usually some escapees though, and if your container isn’t well-sealed you may have a large influx of small pesky-though-harmless beetles flying around. Fortunately for those of you that are feeling queasy about adding this kind of protein to your diet, don’t worry, the instructions below should ensure no bug protein (or very little!) in your recipes.
MILLING THE PODS WITH A VITAMIX
First I tried our hand mill, which worked well, but just took a lot of time (though not as much as the ancient practice of stone milling!), and then we tried the Vitamix blender. Just a note: If you do not want to pit your blender or food processor, just start blending slowly and work up to your settled on speed. If you follow the instructions below for glass and hard plastic blender pitchers you likely will not experience problems with pitting, but I do not guarantee anything. Once the pods are ground, just put the flour through a sifter and voila! You have beautiful mesquite flour, ready to use. To ensure long-term freshness, store the flour in your freezer.
For obvious reasons, utilizing our Vitamix blender turned out to be so much faster than the hand grinder. Two large handfuls of pods seemed to be about right. Any more than that and it was too much for the blender to mill evenly. I found from experience that at full speed the seeds will pit the blender, and blend a larger quantity of the fibrous tough seed husk and seed into the flour, imparting a coarser texture and more musky and bitter flavor. Ultimately, what we found works the best was to start the Vitamix at its lowest setting and work up incrementally (blending about 10 seconds at each setting) until you get to level 5.
What is great about using this method is that you have little risk of pitting your blender pitcher, and you end up with only the finest flour, leaving the husk and seed intact with the chaff (and the bruchid beetles!) winnowed out early on in the process. Dump the contents of the blender into a bowl repeating the process until it is full, then it is time to sift.
MILLING THE PODS WITH A HAND-CRANK MILL
For the preppers among us, a hand crank mill has a particular attraction and can be pretty handy, though a little more labor-intensive. Use the same setting you would use to make your cracked wheat hot cereal. It is best to break the pods into two-inch pieces or less prior to loading them into the hopper. You will find that as the sticky, tough chaff begins to bind the grinding wheels it may be necessary to reverse the crank to loosen the binding. Do this as repeatedly as necessary throughout this process.
I found that when I used the hand crank mill for mesquite pods often the tough seed husks flatten with the seed still inside and the flour is still ground fine enough for use after sifting. It is the seed and inner husk, after all, that imparts the slightly bitter muskiness characteristic of mesquite. It is this muskiness that tends to be a stronger and more unpleasant acquired taste. The flour without the husk and seed is quite pleasant to most.
SIFTING THE CHAFF FROM THE FLOUR
Using a regular can flour sifter would probably work the fastest to separate the flour from the chaff, but since we didn’t have one we just used a small kitchen sieve instead. Ideally, your flour sifter would have a mesh size suitable for baking flour (The can sifter that we mistakenly purchased online had a mesh size that turned out to be roughly suitable for cornmeal- not really what we were going for). Sift the blended mixture and dump the remaining chaff into a separate container and the resulting flour is sweet, nutty, and gluten-free!
The sifting process for either milling method will essentially be the same using a blender or food processor.
If you want a healthy fiber-rich protein meal, take the chaff and sift it through a colander after you have completed the initial sifting process (that left the largest material- the seed husks behind). Then put the fines back into the blender a second time. This can be run through the sifter or sieve one last time to obtain the fiber-rich protein meal.
NUTRITIONAL VALUE
Mesquite is well known as a superfood with great nutrition, some of which are fiber, protein, calcium, potassium, magnesium, iron, and zinc. Many recipes have you cook the mesquite flour, however, we have recently learned that mesquite is easier to digest raw than cooked (and the flavor is milder). We will be adding it to our breakfast green smoothies!
If you liked this post be sure to subscribe! Have you ever milled mesquite or have any recipes for us to try? Feel free to respond in the comments section below!
Happy Homesteading!
RECIPES
Mesquite Pancakes:
Marin found a basic recipe online for mesquite pancakes, and the kids loved it! You can also use it as you would cornmeal, it has a similar (though softer) texture, but as is the case with many types of non-grain flours, mesquite flour benefits from the gluten in wheat flour to help it stick together.
Keep in mind that mesquite is already super sweet and does not need much-added sugar in recipes. For the pancake recipe, she used half mesquite and half flour. Be aware that mesquite flour has a high natural sugar content, so these hotcakes tend to burn easily!
Mesquite Syrup:
What to do with the leftover chaff? Before you discard all that chaff, be adventurous! According to some sources, with a little purified water and patience boiling, it can be processed into a sweet syrup! We are going to try this next. Stay tuned for more mesquite adventures!
Update: We tried the mesquite syrup! But not with the chaff… All we did was put 1 pound of the whole pods in a crockpot with 1 gallon of water and steeped it overnight on high (lid on). In the morning we just took the lid off and let it sit on low for a day or more until the consistency was syrup. For this process, we did not add any sugar, but we added a bit of stevia and vanilla to make it tastier. Definitely a very “mesquitey” acquired taste. We will be trying some new recipes to see what works best. I think it is definitely going to need diluted and added sugar.
